Saving Face 101: How to Customize Your Skin Care Routine With Your Skin Type

/PRNewswire/ -- Finding the right skin care routine starts with understanding the unique needs of your skin type. For example, people with dry skin can benefit from applying moisturizer several times a day; whereas, those with oily skin might need to apply a lightweight moisturizer only once a day, if at all. Customization is key, and dermatologists can help people of all ages and skin types select products based on their individual skin care needs.

Speaking today at the American Academy of Dermatology's SKIN academy (Academy), Sonia Badreshia-Bansal, MD, FAAD, a dermatologist in private practice in Danville, Calif., discussed the importance of an individualized approach to good skin care and offered basic tips for the most common skin types.

"No matter what your skin type, using daily moisturizer and practicing year-round sun protection are vital to maintaining healthy, glowing skin," said Dr. Badreshia-Bansal. "That's because with adequate hydration and use of a broad-spectrum sunscreen, the skin has the advantage of protecting itself from free radicals and harmful ultraviolet radiation that cause skin damage, discoloration, premature wrinkles and even skin cancer. Over time, a careful and consistent skin care routine with products designed for specific skin types can gradually improve the overall health and appearance of the skin."

Combination Skin Tips

For many people, their skin has areas that are dry and oily, which is classified as combination skin. With this skin type, the forehead, nose or chin might be oily, but the cheeks could be dry. For combination skin, Dr. Badreshia-Bansal recommends using a mild cleanser that minimizes sebum removal. In addition, a medium-weight lotion with broad-spectrum sunscreen containing many different sunscreen ingredients is beneficial.

"To improve skin texture, prevent fine lines and wrinkles, and help even skin color - especially to help lighten dark spots - an over-the-counter retinol cream or a prescription tretinoin cream can be used during the evening skin care regimen to maintain skin health and prevent future damage," said Dr. Badreshia-Bansal. "However, when beginning use of tretinoin, the strength should be gradually increased due to its potential to irritate the skin, followed by vigilant use of a moisturizer to help offset any dryness or peeling."

Dry Skin Tips

For dry skin, Dr. Badreshia-Bansal recommends washing the face twice a day with a gentle cleanser or creamy wash with mild detergent. She suggests applying a moisturizer with sunscreen once a day right after cleansing while the skin is still damp, as this can help seal in moisture.

"If the skin begins to feel tight, reapplying moisturizer midday will help to improve skin hydration," said Dr. Badreshia-Bansal. "A sunscreen-containing moisturizer in a smoothing cream formulation that contains antioxidants, plus dimethicone, grape seed oil or petrolatum, which prevent water loss from the skin, also is helpful."

In some cases where the skin is very dry, Dr. Badreshia-Bansal noted that cleansing the face at night - when it is the dirtiest - may be the only time necessary to wash the face to prevent stripping the skin of its natural oils. If so, she advised rinsing the face with cool water in the morning to help maintain natural oils.

When exfoliating flaky skin, Dr. Badreshia-Bansal suggested that exfoliating once a week is sufficient. Since dry skin can be sensitive, gentle retinols should be applied sparingly to start - such as every other night - along with a moisturizing cream to help even skin tone, texture and color while continuing to hydrate the skin.

Oily/Acne Prone Skin Tips

Oily or acne-prone skin, which is prevalent in teenagers and many adults, requires careful observation to ensure the skin responds favorably to products and the overall skin care routine. For example, some people with oily or acne-prone skin need to wash their face as much as two to three times a day. On the other hand, over-washing the skin also can lead to increased oil production, so a balance must be achieved based on an individual's skin care needs. In general, using an oil-free, non-comedogenic foaming cleanser that contains salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide is imperative to prevent breakouts.

Dr. Badreshia-Bansal said that contrary to popular belief, oily skin may still require a moisturizer. She suggested a moisturizer that is lightweight and non-comedogenic (does not block pores) that contains sunscreen, which has a dual function as a moisturizer and sun protector when applied every morning. Reapplying a sunscreen during the day is necessary to ensure continuous sun protection.

Exfoliating oily skin once or twice a week is sufficient, but Dr. Badreshia-Bansal cautioned that it is not necessary during acne breakouts, as the mechanical friction caused by exfoliation can make acne worse. She added that for skin that is prone to acne, avoiding products with cocoa butter, cinnamon and coconut oil will help prevent breakouts.

To help soften fine lines while reducing future breakouts, Dr. Badreshia-Bansal suggested using a retinol gel or serum nightly. "Your dermatologist can help recommend gentle and effective products that work together to improve the appearance of oily skin and help prevent acne," said Dr. Badreshia-Bansal.

Sensitive Skin Tips

For sensitive skin, washing the face once a day should be enough to keep the skin clean. Dr. Badreshia-Bansal noted that exfoliation is not necessary and can worsen already sensitive skin.

"Avoiding products that contain fragrances, soap or alcohol will help patients with sensitive skin maintain skin health," explained Dr. Badreshia-Bansal. "Calming ingredients, such as green tea polyphenols, chamomile, and aloe are beneficial and, as a general rule, the fewer ingredients in a product the better."

In the morning, Dr. Badreshia-Bansal suggested applying a cream-based moisturizer to dry skin to help prevent or reduce irritation. Active ingredients found in skin care products penetrate more deeply into damp skin (which often can be beneficial in normal skin), but this can cause more irritation in individuals with sensitive skin. In addition, products containing acids, such as lipoic acid, glycolic acid and salicylic acid, may be irritating to sensitive skin. For that reason, caution must be taken with any skin care product containing these types of active ingredients.

To help prevent fine lines and wrinkles and help reduce irritation, Dr. Badreshia-Bansal recommends using a mild retinoid every night followed by a moisturizer to stimulate collagen production.

Skin of Color Tips

For people with skin of color, there are differences in skin anatomy, physiology, and function that can influence how skin care products react with the skin. Even though skin of color is more resilient in many ways, it also is more sensitive to irritant reactions from harsh chemicals and active ingredients, such as glycolic acid which can lead to exaggerated stinging and potential hyperpigmentation (or darkening of the skin).

Dr. Badreshia-Bansal noted that daily moisturizers are a must, since darker skin has a tendency to appear "ashy" when it is not well lubricated. Creams and lotions applied after showering when the skin is slightly damp can help lock in moisture.

Since skin of color is more prone to discoloration and slow healing and scarring from trauma, Dr. Badreshia-Bansal stressed that sunscreen should be used vigilantly by people of color to prevent further sun damage and hyperpigmentation. She suggested that micronized zinc or titanium-based sunscreens will provide the most effective protection.

"People of color, especially those with darker skin tones, mistakenly believe that they don't need to use sunscreen since they generally don't sunburn," said Dr. Badreshia-Bansal. "The fact is that sun damage still occurs in people of color, which can be very difficult to correct. More importantly, studies show that skin cancer is even more life-threatening when it develops in this population, because people with skin of color often ignore the early warning signs - thinking they are not at risk."

In addition, skin lightening products can help lighten discolorations - such as a thin film of kojic acid or a cream containing hydroquinone. However, Dr. Badreshia-Bansal cautioned that patients should be careful not to over-irritate the skin with these products, which can worsen discoloration and acne, particularly in skin of color.

Regardless of skin type, Dr. Badreshia-Bansal finds that a few simple skin care tips can be beneficial in improving the overall appearance and health of the skin.

"I recommend keeping the skin care routine very simple, being very gentle with your skin, and avoid irritating, over-washing and over-scrubbing the face," said Dr. Badreshia-Bansal. "Finding moisturizers that contain sunscreen in a single combination product does the job of two products and are excellent for all skin types. The key is to find the skin care routine and appropriate products that work the best for your individual skin type, which is where your dermatologist can help get you started."

For more information on improving the appearance of your skin, go to the "AgingSkinNet" section of www.skincarephysicians.com, a Web site developed by dermatologists that provides patients with up-to-date information on the treatment and management of disorders of the skin, hair and nails.

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Is There Really Such a Thing as Hope in a Jar?

PRNewswire/ -- When it comes to cosmeceuticals, consumers are bombarded by marketing claims that often fail to live up to their hype. Banking on promises that a product can "reverse the aging process" or "deliver the results of a facelift" leads consumers to spend billions of dollars each year to try an array of anti-aging skin care products. Their hope is that one day they will find a product that actually lives up to its claims.

Speaking today at the American Academy of Dermatology's SKIN academy (Academy), dermatologist Patricia K. Farris, MD, FAAD, clinical associate professor of dermatology at Tulane University School of Medicine in New Orleans, discussed how to separate fact from fiction when evaluating cosmeceuticals and tips for gauging the validity of product claims.

"When consulting with our patients, dermatologists can suggest skin care products that have strong science behind them and that have been proven to be safe and effective in human studies," said Dr. Farris. "The biggest problem with cosmeceuticals is not that they don't work, but that their benefits are greatly exaggerated."

Cosmeceuticals can be divided into categories based on their active ingredients. Anti-oxidants represent the largest category. They are followed by peptides (small proteins that stimulate the production of collagen and thicken the skin) and growth factors (compounds that act as chemical messengers between cells and play a role in cell division, new cell and blood vessel growth, and the production and distribution of collagen and elastin). More recently, Dr. Farris noted that the new trend is toward combination products. For example, cosmeceuticals with multiple anti-oxidants, retinol plus anti-oxidants, growth factors plus vitamin C and other unique combinations that are now being mass marketed. Consumers tend to favor combination products, embracing the philosophy that if one ingredient is good, then two must be better.

"The important thing to understand about combination products is that often the individual ingredients have been studied, but the combination of active ingredients has not," said Dr. Farris. "More rigorous scientific studies are necessary to assure that biologic activity is maintained when ingredients are formulated together, and clinical studies should be done to determine if combination products really offer any added benefit."

Consumer demand is high for cosmeceuticals containing "natural" or "organic" ingredients. However, Dr. Farris advised that the notion that these ingredients are safer than synthetic ones is a common misconception. In reality, there is no data to support the notion that natural or organic ingredients -- derived from the root, stem, leaves, flowers and fruit of plants -- are safer or even more effective than their synthetic counterparts.

"The problem with cosmeceuticals labeled 'natural' is that the labels themselves don't mean anything because these products are not regulated by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA)," said Dr. Farris. "In fact, 'natural' skin care products are less tested and scrutinized than synthetic products and pharmaceuticals."

Dr. Farris noted that most compounds as they exist in their natural state cannot be formulated into skin care products. They must be chemically altered before they can be incorporated into cosmetics. For instance, compounds including retinol, vitamin C, and soy are among those that require chemical alteration -- after which they are referred to as enhanced natural ingredients. Enhanced natural ingredients tend to be more stable, penetrate better and have more long-lasting effects on the skin than unaltered plant extracts, which is the reason why most cosmeceuticals contain chemically-altered ingredients.

"There are a number of cosmeceutical ingredients that are completely synthetic, such as collagen-boosting peptides and synthetic forms of vitamin A," explained Dr. Farris. "These compounds are among the most potent anti-aging ingredients and have been used extensively by dermatologists. So, it's important for consumers to understand that synthetic ingredients are not necessarily bad and, in fact, skin care products containing these ingredients are probably among the most effective in the marketplace."

Dr. Farris explained that the key to evaluating the effectiveness of cosmeceuticals is understanding how they are tested. After an active ingredient has been identified, it is evaluated using polymerase chain reaction (PCR) testing, which is used to characterize biologic activity and determine if the ingredient is an anti-oxidant or anti-inflammatory. PCR testing also can tell if an ingredient increases collagen production or reduces collagen breakdown. Although PCR testing is a valuable part of the testing process, many of the claims made as a result of PCR testing are not substantiated by human studies.

"For dermatologists, the gold standard for confirming a product's efficacy remains the double-blind, vehicle-controlled study," said Dr. Farris. "In this type of objectively designed study, the product containing the key ingredients is tested against the vehicle, or the product formulation that is similar to the product being tested but without the key active ingredients." Dr. Farris explained that even though a compound may stimulate collagen production in PCR testing, it does not mean that the ingredient will cause any visible improvement in fine lines and wrinkles.

"Since cosmeceuticals are not subject to the FDA's rigorous approval process, most cosmetic manufacturers do not perform double-blind, vehicle-controlled studies," said Dr. Farris. "Instead, they rely on what are called open-label user studies where subjects apply test creams for a few weeks and then assess their improvement over baseline. Unfortunately, these types of studies are of no real value in determining product efficacy because they do not assess the vehicle's effect and there are no objective measures. People participating in these studies want to believe that they look better after using the product, but that does not necessarily mean it works."

Dr. Farris offered these tips when purchasing cosmeceuticals:

-- Ask yourself what the product claims to do and what kinds of studies have been performed.

-- Trust your instincts. If it sounds too good to be true, then it probably is.

-- Stick with products and brands that you know to be reputable. Well-known manufacturers have more money behind their active ingredients and product testing.

-- Beware of Web site claims, as many are biased even if they say they are objective.

-- For day, use products containing anti-oxidants, as they have sun-protection properties. At night, use products containing retinoids, peptides or growth factors for their repair properties.

-- Talk to your dermatologist about the best options for your skin care needs.

For more information on aging skin, go to the "AgingSkinNet" section of http://www.skincarephysicians.com/, a Web site developed by dermatologists that provides patients with up-to-date information on the treatment and management of disorders of the skin, hair and nails.

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LeAnn Rimes Urges Psoriasis Sufferers To Stop Hiding And Start Living

"For years, my self-esteem suffered because of my psoriasis. I lost confidence in how I looked and I felt ashamed. Today, I have a new outlook. I no longer let psoriasis define who I am or how I feel about myself. I am now able to lead a more confident, fulfilling and healthy life."-LeAnn Rimes

(NAPSI)-LeAnn Rimes, psoriasis sufferer and Grammy Award-winning performing artist, remembers that, at one point, she had psoriatic scales on about 80 percent of her body-pretty much everywhere except her hands, face and feet. Because her disease was so visible, LeAnn also recalls how for many years her self-esteem suffered because of her condition. But LeAnn isn't the only one who has experienced the physical and emotional impact of this disease.

Nearly seven million Americans suffer from psoriasis-yet the public is often unaware that psoriasis is a chronic immune disorder that affects the skin and can present physical, emotional or social challenges. In addition to the physical symptoms associated with psoriasis, people with the condition may experience poor self-image, social isolation or depression. And, recent research suggested that severe psoriasis may occur with other serious medical conditions, such as cardiovascular disease, obesity and diabetes.

Because there is so little public awareness about the impact of psoriasis, the American Academy of Dermatology and the National Psoriasis Foundation have partnered together, funded with support from Abbott, to launch a public education program called "Stop Hiding from Psoriasis." The effort is designed to raise awareness of psoriasis as a chronic disease that can have a dramatic impact on sufferers' lives, and to empower people living with psoriasis to Stop Hiding and Start Living by talking with a dermatologist.

LeAnn Rimes is working closely with the American Academy of Dermatology and the National Psoriasis Foundation on "Stop Hiding from Psoriasis." By speaking out about her battle against the disease, which has affected her for much of her life, LeAnn is putting a well-known face on a condition that has long been misunderstood.

For additional information on psoriasis and the "Stop Hiding from Psoriasis" campaign, please visit www.StopHiding.org.

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