Saving Face 101: How to Customize Your Skin Care Routine With Your Skin Type

/PRNewswire/ -- Finding the right skin care routine starts with understanding the unique needs of your skin type. For example, people with dry skin can benefit from applying moisturizer several times a day; whereas, those with oily skin might need to apply a lightweight moisturizer only once a day, if at all. Customization is key, and dermatologists can help people of all ages and skin types select products based on their individual skin care needs.

Speaking today at the American Academy of Dermatology's SKIN academy (Academy), Sonia Badreshia-Bansal, MD, FAAD, a dermatologist in private practice in Danville, Calif., discussed the importance of an individualized approach to good skin care and offered basic tips for the most common skin types.

"No matter what your skin type, using daily moisturizer and practicing year-round sun protection are vital to maintaining healthy, glowing skin," said Dr. Badreshia-Bansal. "That's because with adequate hydration and use of a broad-spectrum sunscreen, the skin has the advantage of protecting itself from free radicals and harmful ultraviolet radiation that cause skin damage, discoloration, premature wrinkles and even skin cancer. Over time, a careful and consistent skin care routine with products designed for specific skin types can gradually improve the overall health and appearance of the skin."

Combination Skin Tips

For many people, their skin has areas that are dry and oily, which is classified as combination skin. With this skin type, the forehead, nose or chin might be oily, but the cheeks could be dry. For combination skin, Dr. Badreshia-Bansal recommends using a mild cleanser that minimizes sebum removal. In addition, a medium-weight lotion with broad-spectrum sunscreen containing many different sunscreen ingredients is beneficial.

"To improve skin texture, prevent fine lines and wrinkles, and help even skin color - especially to help lighten dark spots - an over-the-counter retinol cream or a prescription tretinoin cream can be used during the evening skin care regimen to maintain skin health and prevent future damage," said Dr. Badreshia-Bansal. "However, when beginning use of tretinoin, the strength should be gradually increased due to its potential to irritate the skin, followed by vigilant use of a moisturizer to help offset any dryness or peeling."

Dry Skin Tips

For dry skin, Dr. Badreshia-Bansal recommends washing the face twice a day with a gentle cleanser or creamy wash with mild detergent. She suggests applying a moisturizer with sunscreen once a day right after cleansing while the skin is still damp, as this can help seal in moisture.

"If the skin begins to feel tight, reapplying moisturizer midday will help to improve skin hydration," said Dr. Badreshia-Bansal. "A sunscreen-containing moisturizer in a smoothing cream formulation that contains antioxidants, plus dimethicone, grape seed oil or petrolatum, which prevent water loss from the skin, also is helpful."

In some cases where the skin is very dry, Dr. Badreshia-Bansal noted that cleansing the face at night - when it is the dirtiest - may be the only time necessary to wash the face to prevent stripping the skin of its natural oils. If so, she advised rinsing the face with cool water in the morning to help maintain natural oils.

When exfoliating flaky skin, Dr. Badreshia-Bansal suggested that exfoliating once a week is sufficient. Since dry skin can be sensitive, gentle retinols should be applied sparingly to start - such as every other night - along with a moisturizing cream to help even skin tone, texture and color while continuing to hydrate the skin.

Oily/Acne Prone Skin Tips

Oily or acne-prone skin, which is prevalent in teenagers and many adults, requires careful observation to ensure the skin responds favorably to products and the overall skin care routine. For example, some people with oily or acne-prone skin need to wash their face as much as two to three times a day. On the other hand, over-washing the skin also can lead to increased oil production, so a balance must be achieved based on an individual's skin care needs. In general, using an oil-free, non-comedogenic foaming cleanser that contains salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide is imperative to prevent breakouts.

Dr. Badreshia-Bansal said that contrary to popular belief, oily skin may still require a moisturizer. She suggested a moisturizer that is lightweight and non-comedogenic (does not block pores) that contains sunscreen, which has a dual function as a moisturizer and sun protector when applied every morning. Reapplying a sunscreen during the day is necessary to ensure continuous sun protection.

Exfoliating oily skin once or twice a week is sufficient, but Dr. Badreshia-Bansal cautioned that it is not necessary during acne breakouts, as the mechanical friction caused by exfoliation can make acne worse. She added that for skin that is prone to acne, avoiding products with cocoa butter, cinnamon and coconut oil will help prevent breakouts.

To help soften fine lines while reducing future breakouts, Dr. Badreshia-Bansal suggested using a retinol gel or serum nightly. "Your dermatologist can help recommend gentle and effective products that work together to improve the appearance of oily skin and help prevent acne," said Dr. Badreshia-Bansal.

Sensitive Skin Tips

For sensitive skin, washing the face once a day should be enough to keep the skin clean. Dr. Badreshia-Bansal noted that exfoliation is not necessary and can worsen already sensitive skin.

"Avoiding products that contain fragrances, soap or alcohol will help patients with sensitive skin maintain skin health," explained Dr. Badreshia-Bansal. "Calming ingredients, such as green tea polyphenols, chamomile, and aloe are beneficial and, as a general rule, the fewer ingredients in a product the better."

In the morning, Dr. Badreshia-Bansal suggested applying a cream-based moisturizer to dry skin to help prevent or reduce irritation. Active ingredients found in skin care products penetrate more deeply into damp skin (which often can be beneficial in normal skin), but this can cause more irritation in individuals with sensitive skin. In addition, products containing acids, such as lipoic acid, glycolic acid and salicylic acid, may be irritating to sensitive skin. For that reason, caution must be taken with any skin care product containing these types of active ingredients.

To help prevent fine lines and wrinkles and help reduce irritation, Dr. Badreshia-Bansal recommends using a mild retinoid every night followed by a moisturizer to stimulate collagen production.

Skin of Color Tips

For people with skin of color, there are differences in skin anatomy, physiology, and function that can influence how skin care products react with the skin. Even though skin of color is more resilient in many ways, it also is more sensitive to irritant reactions from harsh chemicals and active ingredients, such as glycolic acid which can lead to exaggerated stinging and potential hyperpigmentation (or darkening of the skin).

Dr. Badreshia-Bansal noted that daily moisturizers are a must, since darker skin has a tendency to appear "ashy" when it is not well lubricated. Creams and lotions applied after showering when the skin is slightly damp can help lock in moisture.

Since skin of color is more prone to discoloration and slow healing and scarring from trauma, Dr. Badreshia-Bansal stressed that sunscreen should be used vigilantly by people of color to prevent further sun damage and hyperpigmentation. She suggested that micronized zinc or titanium-based sunscreens will provide the most effective protection.

"People of color, especially those with darker skin tones, mistakenly believe that they don't need to use sunscreen since they generally don't sunburn," said Dr. Badreshia-Bansal. "The fact is that sun damage still occurs in people of color, which can be very difficult to correct. More importantly, studies show that skin cancer is even more life-threatening when it develops in this population, because people with skin of color often ignore the early warning signs - thinking they are not at risk."

In addition, skin lightening products can help lighten discolorations - such as a thin film of kojic acid or a cream containing hydroquinone. However, Dr. Badreshia-Bansal cautioned that patients should be careful not to over-irritate the skin with these products, which can worsen discoloration and acne, particularly in skin of color.

Regardless of skin type, Dr. Badreshia-Bansal finds that a few simple skin care tips can be beneficial in improving the overall appearance and health of the skin.

"I recommend keeping the skin care routine very simple, being very gentle with your skin, and avoid irritating, over-washing and over-scrubbing the face," said Dr. Badreshia-Bansal. "Finding moisturizers that contain sunscreen in a single combination product does the job of two products and are excellent for all skin types. The key is to find the skin care routine and appropriate products that work the best for your individual skin type, which is where your dermatologist can help get you started."

For more information on improving the appearance of your skin, go to the "AgingSkinNet" section of www.skincarephysicians.com, a Web site developed by dermatologists that provides patients with up-to-date information on the treatment and management of disorders of the skin, hair and nails.

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Opinion: The Quest for Youth, Beauty and... Cancer?

As I was walking on the treadmill this morning I listened to a health segment showing on Fox News. It was not good news gals! There's a new study out that shows a strong link between occurrences of breast cancer and those lotions we use to keep ourselves looking younger.

Yikes. You should see my bathroom counter! Every time I go to the store I pick up some new cream that promised eternal youth, no wrinkles, slimmer thighs and other miracles. I figure if I mix and match maybe one of them will work.

There's the under-eye stuff that helps minimize puffiness and discoloration. Then there's another that promises no wrinkles and that it's the absolute best, works overnight, I'll be twenty years younger if I use it... Why take a chance on choosing the wrong one?

I "assumed" they were safe since they're made by mainstream companies that must be regulated since they're sold in the United States, right?

Wrong.

Now I hear as I'm drinking my first bottle of water (which according to studies has its own problems), walking on the treadmill to slim those thighs (so much for the thigh slimming cream) and keep the heart healthy, that the stuff I slathered on my face last night and then the other stuff I added this morning might result in breast cancer.

According to the study, many lotions contain estrogen or estrogen related ingredients. The extra estrogen could, and there's the magic word, could, increase the risk of breast cancer.

What's a girl to do to stay looking as young as possible? Can't go get one of those liposuction type things, I'm allergic to pain and my pocketbook is allergic to the cost. I can't go for facials and massages, again it's the pocketbook with a good no-time allocation factor tossed in for good measure.

The medical expert on Fox News, and I apologize for not remembering her name, said she used sunflower oil to moisturize. Yep, straight old sunflower oil right out of the bottle. The kind you find at the grocery store. When Megan Kelly asked her about others, she said olive oil or pretty much any other oil was fine. No chemicals, no preservatives, just straight oil. She said it wasn't sticky or gunky (my paraphrase) when asked.

Hmmm... I don't know about if those with oily skin or skin prone to acne could handle that one.

Here's another startling fact I found when I followed up on the story: "Due to gaping loopholes in federal law, companies can put virtually any ingredient into personal care products. Even worse, the government does not require pre-market safety tests for any of them." (per Skin Deep, see below)

Whoa. I was shocked to say the least. Here I go trusting my government again. I should know better. I am usually pretty good at checking out what goes into my body, I just had a major mental lapse when it came to what I put on my body. Even though I've heard whispers about problems with some ingredients I hadn't given it much thought. I mean, gee, it seems that there's a problem with everything these days!

I decided to do some research of my own on the Internet. As I wandered around reading articles the news got worse. There are studies showing increases in the rate of cancer in those who started using makeup at younger ages! There are articles all over the place, many from respected sources, warning against ingredients in lotions, creams, cosmetics and other products we regularly use to keep ourselves looking good --- on the outside.

Given the choice between an extra wrinkle and laying in a wrinkled bed while getting chemo treatments, I think I'll go with the extra wrinkle on the face. However, it seems I may not have to make that drastic a choice, staving off aging as I can for as long as I reasonably can! There are product choices that don't have the known nasty carcinogens. I'm going to be doing some research and will be finding those products. I found one site (www.cosmeticdatabase.com) that seems to be a good neutral starting place. Below are a few articles I've chosen to help you get started on your own research:

From Cornell University (this is the best of all articles I found, has some great videos)
Breast Cancer - The Estrogen Connection
Cosmetics and More
Ingredients in a wide variety of cosmetics and personal care products can mimic the effects of the hormone estrogen. Scientists are concerned that even at low levels, these environmental estrogens may work together with the body’s own estrogen to increase the risk of breast cancer.
http://envirocancer.cornell.edu/research/endocrine/videos/makeup.cfm

Visit www.cosmeticdatabase.com -
Skin Deep is a safety guide to cosmetics and personal care products brought to you by researchers at the Environmental Working Group.
Skin Deep pairs ingredients in more than 41,000 products against 50 definitive toxicity and regulatory databases, making it the largest integrated data resource of its kind. Why did a small nonprofit take on such a big project? Because the FDA doesn't require companies to test their own products for safety.

Other articles:

Pretty Ugly: Cosmetics Ingredients Linked to Breast Cancer?
Author: Karen Barrow
Medically Reviewed On: January 04, 2007
Even at the youngest ages, little girls find their way into their mother’s makeup kit, making a mess of lipstick, eye shadow and mascara on their face. And as girls grow older, they begin the delicate debate with their parents over what type of makeup they can wear and when. However, mothers and fathers everywhere may have one more tool in their arsenal for convincing their daughters to delay that trip to the cosmetics counter.
http://juneauempire.healthology.com/main/breast-cancer/breast-cancer-%20prevention/article4037.htm

Cosmetics Popular With Latinas Linked to Cancer, Other Serious Health Problems
Bill Requiring Cosmetics Companies to Report Use of Hazardous Chemicals Would Protect Salon Workers
SAN FRANCISCO—Several cosmetics products that are popular with Latina consumers have been found to contain ingredients linked to cancer and other serious health problems, according to an analysis of cosmetics ingredients.
http://www.breastcancerfund.org/site/apps/nlnet/content3.aspx?c=kwKXLdPaE&b=1745617&ct=1286431

Tips To Help You Care For Feet In Winter

(NAPSI)-Chilly weather, drying indoor heat and hectic schedules can be so rough on feet that it may take a little extra pampering to keep them healthy and happy.

"The colder months often leave our bodies susceptible to hosts of health problems and foot ailments are no exception," said Dr. Ross Taubman, president of the American Podiatric Medical Association (APMA). "However, being proactive about things such as proper footwear and moisturizing are just two of the ways to prevent seasonal foot ailments."

According to the APMA, the No. 1 way American women like to show their feet a little TLC is by applying moisturizer (48 percent), followed by an at-home massage (14 percent) and stretching (11 percent).

The APMA suggests these fixes to help get you back on your feet:

1. Massage your feet. Rub feet to release tension, increase circulation and rejuvenate the skin.

2. Soothe your soles. Soak feet for at least five minutes in a container filled with warm water. Pat your feet dry and apply lotion to hydrate your feet.

3. Elevate your legs. Lift your legs above your heart while lying down to help reduce swelling.

4. Rotate your ankles. Cup the foot under the back portion of the heel to brace the foot and leg and turn slowly at the ankle five times. This loosens the ankle joint and relaxes your feet.

5. Point your toes. While standing, do toe raises, toe points and toe curls for five seconds; repeat 10 times. This alleviates toe cramps and strengthens calf muscles.

6. If high heels are creating a burning sensation on the balls of your feet, use colorful ball-of-thefoot cushions such as Foot Petals Tip Toes. Not only do they pamper the feet, but they stop them from sliding forward by moving the center of pressure toward the heel.

7. If your heels hurt, you can put some spring in your step with the help of Spenco for Her Comfort Casual Insoles. Designed to absorb shock and curtail odor, they also prevent blisters, as well as cracked and callused heels.

8. If sassy party slingbacks are digging deep into your skin, create a protective barrier by using a moleskin or Foot Petals Strappy Strips to prevent blisters and strap slippage.

Check out the APMA's Web site, www.apma.org, for a list of approved products, including foot creams, scrubs and powders that are beneficial to maintaining good foot health.

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Bell Ventures Launches Breakthrough Radical Defense Skin Care Ingredient

GBB Note: Beauty foods? This will most likely be interesting to follow as the beauty industry looks at foods with potential positive effects.

/PRNewswire/ -- Bell Ventures LLC, a leader in innovative antioxidant solutions in food, nutrition, and skin care, announces the release of its new, high-performance natural ingredient, GlobalPAX(TM).

GlobalPAX(TM) is a proprietary extract made from the world's finest natural sources of proanthocyanidins (PACs), a powerful class of antioxidants. It is the first high-performance ingredient to standardize antioxidant capacity to Total ORAC, which analyzes antioxidant protection against 5 free radicals.

Bell Ventures also uses recognized markers of skin damage to demonstrate efficacy. GlobalPAX(TM) is standardized to collagenase and elastase inhibition, evidence that it helps defend against skin damage.

David Bell, President of Bell Ventures, says, "GlobalPAX(TM) is the result of our deep understanding of the science of antioxidants and our appreciation for their benefits to the skin. PACs are a very versatile antioxidant family, and we see this in the protection GlobalPAX(TM) delivers."

GlobalPAX(TM) provides powerful broad-spectrum defense against hydroxyl, peroxyl, peroxynitrite, singlet oxygen, and superoxide anion. Each of these radicals is implicated in skin damage.

The premium anti-aging skin care market is hungry for novel, high-performance naturals. The benefits of antioxidant protection provided by GlobalPAX(TM) make it ideal for differentiating next-generation products.

GlobalPAX(TM) has already received the attention of significant players in the industry. "We outperform a wide range of popular antioxidant ingredients, such as vitamin C, green tea extract, and green coffee cherry extract," Bell reports.

GlobalPAX(TM) can also be used to differentiate dietary supplements and the emerging category of inside-out skin care products and "beauty foods."

With standardized Total ORAC greater than 25,000 per gram, PACs, and skin outcome markers, GlobalPAX(TM) differentiates itself in a crowded market. As Bell says, "GlobalPAX(TM) lives up to its slogan, Prove what goes in before it goes on."

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Is There Really Such a Thing as Hope in a Jar?

PRNewswire/ -- When it comes to cosmeceuticals, consumers are bombarded by marketing claims that often fail to live up to their hype. Banking on promises that a product can "reverse the aging process" or "deliver the results of a facelift" leads consumers to spend billions of dollars each year to try an array of anti-aging skin care products. Their hope is that one day they will find a product that actually lives up to its claims.

Speaking today at the American Academy of Dermatology's SKIN academy (Academy), dermatologist Patricia K. Farris, MD, FAAD, clinical associate professor of dermatology at Tulane University School of Medicine in New Orleans, discussed how to separate fact from fiction when evaluating cosmeceuticals and tips for gauging the validity of product claims.

"When consulting with our patients, dermatologists can suggest skin care products that have strong science behind them and that have been proven to be safe and effective in human studies," said Dr. Farris. "The biggest problem with cosmeceuticals is not that they don't work, but that their benefits are greatly exaggerated."

Cosmeceuticals can be divided into categories based on their active ingredients. Anti-oxidants represent the largest category. They are followed by peptides (small proteins that stimulate the production of collagen and thicken the skin) and growth factors (compounds that act as chemical messengers between cells and play a role in cell division, new cell and blood vessel growth, and the production and distribution of collagen and elastin). More recently, Dr. Farris noted that the new trend is toward combination products. For example, cosmeceuticals with multiple anti-oxidants, retinol plus anti-oxidants, growth factors plus vitamin C and other unique combinations that are now being mass marketed. Consumers tend to favor combination products, embracing the philosophy that if one ingredient is good, then two must be better.

"The important thing to understand about combination products is that often the individual ingredients have been studied, but the combination of active ingredients has not," said Dr. Farris. "More rigorous scientific studies are necessary to assure that biologic activity is maintained when ingredients are formulated together, and clinical studies should be done to determine if combination products really offer any added benefit."

Consumer demand is high for cosmeceuticals containing "natural" or "organic" ingredients. However, Dr. Farris advised that the notion that these ingredients are safer than synthetic ones is a common misconception. In reality, there is no data to support the notion that natural or organic ingredients -- derived from the root, stem, leaves, flowers and fruit of plants -- are safer or even more effective than their synthetic counterparts.

"The problem with cosmeceuticals labeled 'natural' is that the labels themselves don't mean anything because these products are not regulated by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA)," said Dr. Farris. "In fact, 'natural' skin care products are less tested and scrutinized than synthetic products and pharmaceuticals."

Dr. Farris noted that most compounds as they exist in their natural state cannot be formulated into skin care products. They must be chemically altered before they can be incorporated into cosmetics. For instance, compounds including retinol, vitamin C, and soy are among those that require chemical alteration -- after which they are referred to as enhanced natural ingredients. Enhanced natural ingredients tend to be more stable, penetrate better and have more long-lasting effects on the skin than unaltered plant extracts, which is the reason why most cosmeceuticals contain chemically-altered ingredients.

"There are a number of cosmeceutical ingredients that are completely synthetic, such as collagen-boosting peptides and synthetic forms of vitamin A," explained Dr. Farris. "These compounds are among the most potent anti-aging ingredients and have been used extensively by dermatologists. So, it's important for consumers to understand that synthetic ingredients are not necessarily bad and, in fact, skin care products containing these ingredients are probably among the most effective in the marketplace."

Dr. Farris explained that the key to evaluating the effectiveness of cosmeceuticals is understanding how they are tested. After an active ingredient has been identified, it is evaluated using polymerase chain reaction (PCR) testing, which is used to characterize biologic activity and determine if the ingredient is an anti-oxidant or anti-inflammatory. PCR testing also can tell if an ingredient increases collagen production or reduces collagen breakdown. Although PCR testing is a valuable part of the testing process, many of the claims made as a result of PCR testing are not substantiated by human studies.

"For dermatologists, the gold standard for confirming a product's efficacy remains the double-blind, vehicle-controlled study," said Dr. Farris. "In this type of objectively designed study, the product containing the key ingredients is tested against the vehicle, or the product formulation that is similar to the product being tested but without the key active ingredients." Dr. Farris explained that even though a compound may stimulate collagen production in PCR testing, it does not mean that the ingredient will cause any visible improvement in fine lines and wrinkles.

"Since cosmeceuticals are not subject to the FDA's rigorous approval process, most cosmetic manufacturers do not perform double-blind, vehicle-controlled studies," said Dr. Farris. "Instead, they rely on what are called open-label user studies where subjects apply test creams for a few weeks and then assess their improvement over baseline. Unfortunately, these types of studies are of no real value in determining product efficacy because they do not assess the vehicle's effect and there are no objective measures. People participating in these studies want to believe that they look better after using the product, but that does not necessarily mean it works."

Dr. Farris offered these tips when purchasing cosmeceuticals:

-- Ask yourself what the product claims to do and what kinds of studies have been performed.

-- Trust your instincts. If it sounds too good to be true, then it probably is.

-- Stick with products and brands that you know to be reputable. Well-known manufacturers have more money behind their active ingredients and product testing.

-- Beware of Web site claims, as many are biased even if they say they are objective.

-- For day, use products containing anti-oxidants, as they have sun-protection properties. At night, use products containing retinoids, peptides or growth factors for their repair properties.

-- Talk to your dermatologist about the best options for your skin care needs.

For more information on aging skin, go to the "AgingSkinNet" section of http://www.skincarephysicians.com/, a Web site developed by dermatologists that provides patients with up-to-date information on the treatment and management of disorders of the skin, hair and nails.

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